I have decided to combine CREDITS with/into a BUILD DESCRIPTION-SUMMARY, that many have requested.
Be advised that there is absolutely nothing, or a part of, the steel 1939 Lincoln Zephyr I bought(which had been butchered by previous owners) that has not been modified, re-engineered, repaired, replaced, redesigned, refinished, or reworked. I cannot recall every detail of the almost 3 year build, but will do my best. And will give credit where it is due, good or bad.
My goal from start to finish was to maximize the inherent beauty and flow of my favorite pre-war car, that I considered Edsel Ford’s greatest achievement. That included giving it a street rod ‘attitude’, and removing/hiding all protrusions, clutter, knobs, trim, etc., to create a totally smooth, flowing, technology-infused, aerodynamic, yet still easily recognized, 1939 Lincoln Zephyr 3 Window Coupe, accentuated by the Teardrop-ZZ Rider Theme throughout.

Lastly; there were questions asked and comments made during the Detroit Autorama assuming that parts of the body and interior sections were fiberglass because of their complexity. I can state flat out…THERE IS NOT ANY FIBERGLASS IN ZZ RIDER ! IT IS ALL HAND FABRICATED STEEL…period (and some unique incorporations of lexan).

Let’s start with the exterior body…………
My first major design change was to add a functional teardrop hood scoop. Mario Santana of Pro Comp (PC) executed it perfectly adding a custom made grille-insert. I wanted to change the flow of the body back to front by chopping the top to create a forward rake. PC delivered a 4 ½“ chop, which as you know is much easier said than done. The whole roof had to be sectioned, rear window reduced, doors- side windows remade, drip rails remade, all seams welded and smoothed, etc. After that was completed, I still wasn’t happy with the flow, because the hood-with-scoop was too high. PC cut out 2” the length of the engine side panels, dropping the hood height-rake to what I wanted.

Next to go, were the two aftermarket ‘ 59 Caddy taillight assemblies that were cut into the fenders and looked totally obnoxious. Also, there was an aftermarket teardrop gas filler cap assembly installed at the top of the LR fender that I felt had to go. All three were removed and the fenders/contours restored to original. In the same vein, all handles, trim, bumpers-supports, emblems, mirrors, locks, etc. were removed and all holes were metal filled, welded, and completely smoothed as if they never existed.

I knew I didn’t want the exhaust pipes to exit under the rear pan. I decided to have them exit through teardrop shaped openings in the panel section directly under the trunk lid. When Mario started working on this, he found the panel to be porous; requiring him to make a new steel panel from scratch. This was done as I wanted. However; after the exhaust was put in place, I was never comfortable with the ‘look’. So; much, much, later on, I requested a change which may seem small, but required a costly redesign. The result is that now you don’t see two exhaust pipes sticking out of two teardrop holes in the metal pan. You see two chrome teardrop bezels on the surface and two plenum chambers behind . And if you look very closely, you will see the pipe end entering the rear of the chamber. Result is that the exhaust exit, rather than being a pipe protrusion marring the smoothness of the rear, appears as an actual part of the body of the car.

I yanked those Caddy lights because I wanted to retain the original smooth fender lines. So for tail light lenses, I had PC create teardrop shaped lexan lenses molded to the exact shape of the fender. This is something they do very well and we did the same with the license plate housing in the trunk lid with an integrated lexan cover. We also did the same with the neatly molded-to-the-fender-shape front head light lenses. And how about teardrop MOON ROOFS! Yep; I got that idea while the car sat in limbo in Pittsburg. From the outside you have no idea it has two moon roofs because the lexan is tinted the same color as the roof. When we made folks aware of this at the Autorama, by kneeling down and looking up into the ceiling of the cab; it just blew them away! There are two more unique employments of lexan that I came up with which we will get to later.
Let’s get back to the trunk lid. The car had the usual solenoid-electric actuator and the original hinges, which were in poor shape. Both had to go. Mario fabricated new custom hinges and a real trick horizontally- hinged hidden actuator rod assembly. Rick (Rick Seitzinger-Specialty Auto Interiors (SAI) ) designed a neat bezel frame-around the hinges plus a curved wire chase located on the inside of one of the hinge curves (to hide the license plate light wires). All these pieces were chromed. Result …the power trunk opens/closes with only barely perceptible movement of the hinges. After the Autorama, when we brought her back to SAI to have more work done, I decided to add a rear view camera that functions all the time. It is concealed inside the license plate housing and basically hidden inside the trunk lid. I did this primarily for safety reasons. Rear view mirror - rear window function is nil. And the wicked cool, but small, Arlen Ness teardrop (motorcycle) side view mirrors that we altered/installed need help, especially on the passenger side to sight a car coming up on your right. One more thing while we have the trunk open…you will notice a clear window that gives you an up close and cool view of the chromed rear end. Actually, to enhance the view, I had a light installed over the rear end that comes on when the trunk opens. And here’s something you don’t see…the gas cap-fill pipe which is located in the upper left section of the back trunk wall.
Which is a good segway into what I dubbed “Houdini’s Hideaway” because I nicknamed the car “Houdini’s Hot Rod”. It seemed like a good fit, because my goal was to keep everything hidden, to create function and movement as if by magic! To help accomplish this, I created the “Hideaway” between the back wall of the trunk and the back of the seats. However; when you look into the trunk, you naturally assume the back wall is right behind the seats and contains the sound system components. When you look into the car, you again naturally assume that the area behind the seats is the spacious trunk. Here’s the skinny. Packed into the “Hideaway” is:
> the VINTAGE AIR HVAC system (the ducts route through the center console to the custom dash
and connect to the two SOUTHERN AIR A/C-heat diffusers, and two defroster diffusers).
> the AIR RIDE TECHNOLOGIES system ( including the air pressure tank, the valves, the pumps,
air hoses, wiring blocks, etc.)
> the BATTERY BOX-REMOTE BATTERY (the lines run under a false floor Rick created.
> the SS GAS TANK and FUEL PUMP ( fill is located behind upper left teardrop in back wall of
trunk and gas lines are all hidden en route to engine)
> the SOUND SYSTEM components-MASSIVE AUDIO from Pete Perez (plus two mounted
speakers in the doors and speakers mounted in the access panels-to-Hideaway, behind each seat.)
> the CIRCUIT PANEL for the computer wiring (all 131 circuits! ) (from THE DETAIL ZONE)
> the CIRCUIT PANEL for the rest of the electrical circuits ( RON FRANCIS WIRING)
> Houdini’s top hat and suit of clothes………naw; just kidding on that one!

To create’the room ‘, I had Mario build a ‘wall’ behind the seats that turned into an upward sloping package tray to a point just below the rear window. Because of the (vented) gas tank, and all the other equipment/noise in there; the Hideaway had to be air tight and insulated from the cabin. As mentioned, access panels were cut in the walls behind each seat. But you don’t normally see them which adds to the illusion. “Out of sight, is out of mind” to the casual observer. I found it very interesting at the Autorama watching the casual observers wander by, versus the serious gear heads who stopped to study and try to figure out…HOW? I tried to talk/answer questions with as many of them as I could.

Let’s continue with the cabin redesign and early stage alterations. The whole interior was a mess, despite the addition of a billet steering column and some new cheap gauges, that weren’t even connected. Plus, as you may know, someone previous had welded sheet metal over the old rotted floor and welded it all to both frame rails. We proceeded to cut out the floor and grind everything down to smooth and install a new metal floor, transmission cover, firewall, and dash. I wanted a really special one only dash/interior. I could see something was getting lost in translation with Mario. So I went to my sculpture studio and created an image of the interior out of clay and balsa wood. When I brought it in on a big board, Mario’s eyes lit up in comprehension and he proceeded to fabricate my idea perfectly out of steel and lexan for the teardrop shaped cover that hides the full compliment of DAKOTA DIGITAL blue LED gauges( including boost gauge) that are mounted on/in sleeves and when turned on appear to float in space. The blue LED behind the burgundy tint creates an eerie glow. You will notice the center console which flows horizontally from the base of the vertical instrument tower and contains the original ‘shorty’ 6-speed shifter (I didn’t want anything higher that would obstruct the full view of the teardrop panel). The console continues rearward and rises up toward the package tray in a raised –divider fashion to the base of the rear window. In the section that rises, we created a ‘glove-box’ storage unit. It holds the main diagnostic computer connector, Air Ride System controller, and room for the usual glove box odds and ends. I did this because I wanted to use the normal glove box space in the dash. In it I put a PIONEER AVIC 2 unit from Pete Perez that controls all audio, DVD, Ipod, navigational, and even let’s you hook up your laptop on the road. But, in keeping with my smooth-hidden theme, the unit will, on command, electrically rise up out of sight into the dash, or likewise drop down for use. For an emergency brake, we went with a LOKAR billet unit, the cables all being hidden from sight. Again, because of my desire for a near-pristine firewall/engine compartment, I went with a KUGEL KOMPONENTS 90’ horizontal in-dash clutch-brake-booster unit…again all is hidden. The unit had to be all refinished by SAI, because PC allowed it to become a rusted mess. Of course we chromed all pedal shafts and the emergency brake. To the shaft ends, SAI attached mounting plates. On these were attached hand carved billet teardrop shaped pedals with a raised Z within. The gas pedal was likewise hand made in an elongated teardrop shape with the word RIDER carved out of the billet. These were one of the last pieces of metal work that Mario created before the car was shipped to Pittsburg in the rain. We had to reroute the brake pedal shaft to go around the IDIDIT fully polished steering column, which contained the ignition switch, turn signal system, cruise control system. It was topped with a BILLET SPECIALTIES polished steering wheel which SAI half-covered with the leather. I thought of making a one-off custom wheel to match my road wheels, but this wheel has teardrop shaping already, with art deco accents. Plus; I liked its name…”The Psycho”! I searched long and hard for satisfactory seats, which came from a late 90’s Eldorado. Because the floor was so low in relation to the windshield, Mario made these really trick, stylish bases. Again, PC allowed them to become rusted messes. As it turned out, SAI had to shorten them some because of their false floor, and then refinish them. Back up to the ceiling and the fabulous metal work that Mario did on creating a metal-perimeter-border-extrusion (I’m at a loss to find any other words to best describe it) that, in effect, creates a feeling of two personal cabin sections for driver and passenger. The two moon roofs seal the deal! The doors were fun…I wanted suicide doors which they had been converted to. But the hinges were cheap and incorrectly installed, so had to be replaced, along with the power window mechanisms…YOGI’S and SUMMIT RACING to the rescue. SAI eventually had to do a lot of reworking for the doors/windows/power systems. We replaced all the glass with new tinted safety. Also, PC had to remake the bottoms of both doors to fit properly (and clean out some cheesy metal at the same time). Also; later on I decided I wanted door sills with a custom sill plate. PC and SAI collaborated on making the cavity inset, and SAI designed and fabricated the cool chromed sill with the ZZ RIDER logo inset in the middle in embroidered leather. I know I’m forgetting some things, but let’s keep moving forward.

In addition to the new firewall, we did some work to the cowl. I wanted to keep the cowl vent ‘look’. While it is not functional as originally used, we use it for access to the brake fluid fill, and to the wiper mechanisms. Next the whole engine compartment had to be reengineered. We remade the single wall side panels into double wall compartments, both for strength and to use as a chase to run lines, wire, hoses, etc .keeping everything hidden from view and smooth as possible. A cross member had to be fabricated (there was none) and a beefed up area for the new motor mounts had to be made. The center nose panel between the grilles had to be fabricated because it was porous and a new bottom pan in the nose. When I returned from the 2007 Detroit Autorama, I informed Mario (we worked through an interpreter, usually Cruz DeJesus)) that I had a major change for the hood. I explained that I was envisioning the car on display at this years Show, and it hit me…What was the point of having this super trick hood scoop, if no one would really see it, what with the hood being open/hinged at the cowl. Plus I didn’t like the ugly hood hinges marring my vision of a pristine smooth firewall/cowl. The solution was to have the hood hinge at the nose. (picture Mario starting to hold his head) But wait, I had more…and I wanted to have the hood open automatically, become almost at 90’ when fully open, AND I didn’t want the hood to cover any part of the grille!!! (at this point he was pleading in Spanish to Cruz that I kept him up at night with all my ideas and gave him headaches). However, after making sure I knew that this would entail MAJOR rework and engineering, and me assuring him that it would be worth it; he gave his signature shrug and roll of the eyes and said OK. (Before that he would call me “Heavy Duty”. After that, it became “Colonel Heavy Duty”! I liked Mario. He could have worked faster, and I paid his(and more) salary for 1 ½ years, but he was a master at metal fabrication. Some day when I get ZZ RIDER out of my system, and if my health allows me, I’ll get back to my sculpture work and I have at least two large scale metal sculptures that I am planning on Mario to fabricate for me). Anyway; back to the hood. Yes; it was major work just in strengthening the nose section and the hood. Then Mario created a hinge mechanism that mounts in the top of the nose, connecting hood to nose. Actuator motors-rods mounted in the base of the nose connect to tabs on the hinge. Now, assume the hood is in the closed position…stay close with me now….I hit the switch and the ‘ballet ‘ begins…the hood raises vertically about 1+ inches and starts moving forward slowly…as it moves forward it starts to raise-angle upwards…until it reaches it’s forward-most point, at which point the hood is at full open…and then it moves DOWN to a point just above the top of the grille (remember my instructions?) and stops!!!!!! Hit the switch and the ‘ballet’ begins again in reverse! Was it worth it??!! YOU BETCHA! SAI had to install some guides and a latching device for when she goes highway, but this is Trick all the way.

Moving now to the undercarriage. My goal was to make it as clean, smooth, and attractive as the body and interior. PC fabricated a new heavy duty center cross member, and designed the underside with sheet metal pans to create the smooth look and be able to keep all lines, cables, hoses, etc., hidden. Hundreds of hours were spent ‘beautifying’ the underside, and it was. Except for the ratty exhaust system they were going to install. When I saw it up close and personal lying on a bench at SAI, where someone was trying to grind out all the weld beads, rust, and fix the dents, I put it to an immediate halt. I had SAI put in a professional system coupled with some trick hangers that Rick designed. I took the same approach with the suspension system. I went to KUGEL KOMPONENTS early on for a 4-wheel independent system utilizing AIR TECHNOLOGIES Shock Wave air bags (w/remote control) in all corners, with additional coil overs in the rear. It has WILWOOD brakes with inboard rotors in rear and the entire system was show chromed and/or polished, front and rear. Mario handled the installation. ( It cost me thousands to rechrome and replace what PC negligence caused in their move from FL to PA . But that may become a whole other section in the future, depending on their actions). SAI had the driveshaft custom made and it, along with the yokes, the exhaust system (can’t forget the great HUSHPOWER MUFFLERS), custom hangers, et al., were all chromed. See the pics from the AUTORAMA. We had her up on a SHO-TRAK Chrome stand (it’s for sale, BTW) with custom shaped mirrors and lighting underneath…WOW !

There’s more, but let’s move on to the engine/transmission. I gave a lot of consideration to this decision. The easy part was “FORD in a FORD” ! From there it got real complicated with the many routes you can take. In the end, I decided on a 4.6L DOHC Supercharged Cobra Mustang with a TREMEC T-56 six-speed tranny. Donor car was a low mileage 2003. I wanted ‘different’, ‘powerful’, ‘scarce’, ‘desirable’, and ‘sexy’ (like the very ‘ 39 Zephyr it was going to power). I think it was a good choice, despite having to overcome serious adapting/computer problems. Again, I know the sources of the problems, but will let it go for now. Suffice to say, there were big time costly problems to overcome. The cooling system was custom made to SAI specs, completely integrated and in polished aluminum from BE COOL. We decided to paint the block and transmission the burgundy upper color PPG Bordeaux Poly, and the rest of the undercarriage the lower body color, PPG Champagne Poly. Between STREET AND PERFORMANCE and two PA chrome shops, almost everything else in, on, around the engine was chromed, including the custom engine cover Mario created way back when, and the new replacement oil pan.
Ah yes; the wheels. I knew that in order to make ZZ RIDER truly an exceptional one-of-a-kind custom street rod, it was necessary to have one-off wheels, just like many other one-off design ideas in the car. I designed ‘4-spoke’ rather than the usual 5, naturally in a teardrop design. I had hired Pete Perez who supplied custom wheels. I was very ‘knowledge challenged’ in this area, and I thought PC was weak there as well, and I didn’t want to have a disaster with megabuck custom wheels that didn’t fit right. It took over a year to have them fabricated in CA and delivered to me here and then shipped to SAI. Yea; you guessed it…they didn’t fit right, because according to Pete, the factory didn’t make them according to his instructions. (See updates section for more about this mess) As of this writing, we still haven’t fully corrected the problems even though the wheels are on the car and look spectacular. Where there is a will, there is a way, and I have faith in Pete to make things right.

Let’s continue into more of the finishing of the car. On one of my trips to Pittsburg in the fall of ‘ 07, it became obvious a change in game plan was necessary. I basically charged PC with responsibility for finishing up some odds and ends of metal work, and body preparation for a great Bruce Harvey paint job.(And I charged SAI with everything else! )We picked the two primary colors and I gave Bruce the graphics design that I wanted to separate, but at the same time tie, the two colors together. We agreed that the graphics (Z inside a teardrop) would enhance the flow of the exterior, but we also agreed to carry them throughout the interior and the engine compartment. Plus Bruce added some simulated chrome trim graphics and a ‘replica’ of my ZZ RIDER Logo, that he located on the cowl. He tinted the moon roofs so that you can’t tell they are there from the outside and they create a neat ‘Bordeaux Glow’ when you are seated inside with the light coming through the tint.
The interior work was executed by Ricky and Beth at SAI. Picking the right leather was extremely important to Shirley and I, but together with SAI, I think we made the perfect choice. Rick worked with me on my goal to keep everything hidden and smooth, even the seat controls are hidden. When the power is off and you look in the cabin, you see no controls, no knobs(except the emergency brake release pull-knob. And I may even make that hidden.) no gauges…nothing to obstruct the totally smooth aerodynamic one-of-a-kind interior. Even the trick chrome door pulls SAI designed, seem to melt into the doors. The leather work is outstanding and the blend of paint with leather, I feel is perfectly balanced. They did all the plumbing and electrical as well, and had help from Design Specialties, and Roger Downes.

Details, details, details and decisions…hundreds of them to be made…all crucial when you are building a street rod of Ridler caliber. For instance, when we took the car off the jack stands to load her in the trailer for Detroit, I made sure the wheels/tires were covered in order to stay clean, in these great canvas wheel boots from UNIVERSAL CANVAS, all the way until we were ready to put the car up on the display.

I know I’ve forgotten things. A 3 year build of this magnitude covers immeasurable ground. So I invite you to contact me with any questions, or comments, that I will do my best to respond to. And if I’ve forgotten to give appropriate credits, I apologize, and let me know so I can correct.
Thank you.
Jim Sobel